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New PC, new everything, drives disappearing & malware
Hi all, Been searching for answers regarding disappearing drives but only found stuff regarding potentially failing older drives. My computer and all components are new save one SSD and I assembled it in June. Components: Ryzen 3700x Vengeance 32GB 3200MHz Gigabyte 2070s MSI B450 Gaming carbon Corsair 750w modular PSU All high end Corsair braided cables Now the drives: Samsung Evo 860 500gb C: Samsung Evo 860 500gb D: (photos - lightroom) Samsung Evo 850 250gb E: (games) Toshiba 1tb F: (storage) Only the D: and E: drives periodically disappear. It's I'd say about 10-20% of the time after turning the computer on. Restarting usually makes em come back. All drives have good health according to Magician and are healthy according to Dskmgmt. The 850 comes from a previous computer but was thoroughly wiped (formatted, volumes and partitions deleted in Dskmgmt then reformatted again). Magician says 6.5tb were written on it. It was on a laptop and with not much file movement on it save for .docs .pdfs and the likes. Now comes the malware part, though I have no idea if it is connected. Back in July I realised the PC was infected with malwares since I couldn't access Windows defender (only had the blank 'security at a glance screen, and defender had indeed been disabled from the reg). I'd been a greedy bastard and might have gone on unsafe websites. Installed malware bytes, which found a bunch of malware including the one responsible for the defender registry debacle. It found other bitcoin mining stuff too. It apparently took care of it, however, since the computer was new, I did a full windows reinstall without keeping files. I set the few important files aside on a drive and scanned everything beforehand. Everything was fine, fast forward about 3 weeks ago when I tried launching a game and steam tells me I have to download it again. The game drive was gone. I restarted and everything was back to normal. After a while I thought 'eh, let's have ole Defender scan this mess' and bam! No defender, blank 'security at a glance' screen... Back with MWB, more or less same results as before with defender registry hack, bitcoin mining stuff and all. Thing is, I had been much more careful and hadn't downloaded anything, so this seems even weirder for me. I did another fresh windows install two days ago, not saving files (except storing the heavy steam library after full scan), thinking I'd be safe again and could finally enjoy a clean and proper PC. However, this morning, as I tried launching a game, I realised both the game drive and photo drive are gone. Restarted and it's fine, but damn is it annoying. TL;DR: drives disappear randomly it appears, but 2 malwares infestations makes me doubt everything. Everything's brand spanking new though one drive is slightly older but in good health! High quality cables. Thanks for any input and for reading that damn mess. Cheers!
Hi people, I have a computer that I built a few years back and would like to get rid of. This computer has never been used to play any games, mine bitcoin, etc. My brother used it as an office PC. Okay so here is the full part list, along with what I could find each part for at the cheapest... CPU: i9-7920X Skylake 2.9GHz 12-core - $600 GPU: GTX 1080TI (ROG-STRIX-GTX1080TI-011G-GAMING) - $600 Motherboard: ASUS TUF X299 Mark 1 - $350 Memory: Vengeance LPX 4x16GB 2666MHz DDR4 RAM - $220 Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2 - $200 AIO: Thermaltake FLOE RIING - $160 WiFi: Asus PCE-AC558T - $35 Case: CORSAIR CRYSTAL 570X RGB ATX CASE - $150 PSU: EVGA 850 G3 - $140 OS: W10 Pro I'm asking for the combination of all these prices, and sell the whole computer as one (I don't want to part out right now). So $2455 for the rig. I'm not going to add in the cost of windows. If my prices are nuts please let me know. Your sweet proof I don't have a CPU-Z because I didn't know that was a requirement before I reset windows. I hope the UEFI picture makes up for it.
Coil Whine - Unique Situation and What I've Learned and my Desparate Need for Help.
Specs listed at the bottom before you pull your hair out and throw your chair out the window. So for the past 2 months I have been digging all over the internet and troubleshooting this problem in every way I can conceive and I have been through quite the journey to get where I am now, only to find that I may literally be the only one suffering from my unique problem. I am going to be somewhat detailed so that anyone else suffering from this might find this post and learn something (if we find a solution). I will try to keep it concise, but I need you all to know what I have and have not tried so that we don't waste everyone's time. I have an audio buzz. This buzz comes primarily from analogue ins/outs on my PC's hardware. USB audio ins/outs have this as well, but not nearly as bad. I have a USB mixer that I thought was the culprit, because as I was setting up the audio system for streaming it became apparent. I initially discovered ground loops and tried to mitigate the problem by eliminating that. No dice. I systematically eliminated every single ground from the system and removed components to no avail. It would literally be impossible for me to have a ground loop with my current setup - I really dialed that in before I moved inside the PC. Yes I have even plugged the entire system (AS A TEMPORARY - LITERALLY 30 SECOND TEST) into the outlet with no ground prong (bring on the hate) to eliminate that possibility. The main problem that I have is due to the fact that I have to monitor "listen to this device" one input or another with the way my audio works. I need on the fly control of multiple audio streams at my mixer, so I have audio running from windows into my mixer and back out at 2 points. If I want to hear anything from one of them I MUST monitor it within windows. Monitoring the USB audio source does make things significantly more quiet than monitoring the analogue line in, so I am setup this way and things are better than they could be - but still not nearly acceptable. Spoiler: it is due to coil whine which apparently to every single other person in the world is literally a zero issue because they can hide their PC below their desk, keep the culprit component enclosed in the case or use good headphones and not have to listen to the "hardware coil whine." Nobody hears their coil whine through their audio output. If they do - they've been searching for solutions to:
Windows audio buzz/buzzing
Realtek audio buzz
HD Audio Buzz
Buzz through headphones
Buzz through speakers
Etc, you get the idea.
These people that are searching this DO get the help they need. They simply disable a culprit unused audio source, disable monitoring "listen to this device" on an audio source, or reduce microphone boost or lower input/output levels. Some even have success disabling or enabling drivers (but I think this is not the ACTUAL solution - I notice that when I disable, uninstall or update devices/drivers, settings roll back too and any device I was monitoring is no longer monitored (or is monitored by the wrong audio output). My theory is that drivers have nothing to do with this problem - any apparent fix or genesis of the problem due to Windows Update or Drivers are actually just settings being defaulted or change by the audio system resetting. I have also tried USB isolation and dedicated sound cards (which just pass the problem along). The problem is exactly the same no matter what because again - this is due to coil whine and it is at the hardware level at its core. I discovered that it was coil whine after thinking I had discovered it was not coil whine. After all - removing my GPU from the equation didn't stop the sound from persisting in my headphones and a CPU can't coil whine (I don't think)... Anyways, I happen to think I have found a workaround last night. Yeah, sure - the buzz is still there but I am pretty sure it is not coming into my stream. Wrong. I load up a game (and I have my case side panel off) and before I can get into my headphones to check if the noise is back I notice it coming from inside my PC's case. Quick throw-on of the headphones and a quick diagnostic tells me that indeed I am hearing the same noise inside the case and through my headphones. As mentioned before - the USB monitoring has lessened the problem, but not eliminated it. So I have a big "HELL YEAH" moment. The problem is still there - but I know it is SOMEWHERE in this chunk of hardware I am looking at in front of me, and I can assume it is either the PSU, the Motherboard or the GPU. So I take to doing some testing. In my months of research I found that when the computer is "drawing" as in pixels are generating new information, the problem is worse. I also know that loading my CPU to 100% significantly reduces the noise it is making and again I know these things can be related to changes in voltage at the CPU/GPU. So I get a game loaded and go to work. Unplug Display Port - nothing changes significantly, but there is a small change nonetheless. But the monitor literally isn't drawing anything. The CPU is still relaying information (mouse position, the Game, etc). So either way the GPU is still receiving information, just not passing it on to the monitor. Pull the 8 pin off the GPU - Fan cranks to 650% and I couldn't hear anything if I tried. So no dice there but I remember trying this before and not noticing much of a change either. So now I open performance monitor, a web page with plenty of white on it (seems to generate the most noise) and start scrolling around. I notice that I get spikes on the GPU AND THE CPU when scrolling, and the noise in the headphones and at the hardware level is consistent with the movement and the readouts in Performance Monitor. I run Cinebench r20, the CPU shuts the F**k up for the most part, but mostly because it is a high frequency now and most of it is out of normal hearing range (I have a wider hearing range due to ear training) and can pick up the low end of it (18-19khz) and think that if only this was all I had to deal with that would be great. However, I am still getting quick spikes (during r20 test) when I move the mouse to highlight different tables on the performance monitor - so the GPU is also in on it. Speaking of trying to isolate hardware problems: I have tried isolating the noise in the case using a straw and a notebook to block the sound and really can't determine if it is GPU, CPU, or some component on the motherboard or all three - I know it is not coming from the PSU because that is easy enough to isolate in my case (pun not intended - but enjoyed). However, just because the PSU does not whine doesn't mean it isn't the culprit - if it is delivering unstable power to a component then it sure could be (correct me if I am wrong). So here I am - wondering if you all have any valuable input. Please consider that I have read (no exaggeration) 200+ unique pages on this topic (broad as it was in the beginning) and I have tried everything suggested BESIDES replacing CPU, replacing, GPU, replacing MOBO, replacing PSU. And that is why I am here asking for your advice. I need to probably replace components and I have to start somewhere - I cannot RMA anything besides the GPU (lost all proofs of purchase - paid cash for some items at retailers and lost paperwork when moving). And MSI will not RMA motherboards for Coil Whine anyway (according to numerous posts). I am prepared to buy a new MOBO and PSU, but I wonder where you think I should start. Nvidia is looking into RMA'ing the card for me but they're hesitant. I just want to list some other random things I have tried with no success so that you don't waste your time having to ask.
Everything main power related (grounding, loops, power conditioning, etc.)
Modified power plan settings
Disable C-states in BIOS
Remove all overclocks (GPU/CPU/RAM)
Test with different speakers/headphones/combinations of onboard, sound card, audio ins/outs.
Might as well have tested a USB/external sound card considering my mixer is USB and the USB audio out still has a problem (when being monitored)
Cleared cache/reinstalled NUMEROUS programs
Adjusted monitoring levels (this definitely lessens the buzz but it just comes out again when I increase the gain on a later part of the audio chain to make up for the loss in useful audio signal)
Moving case/attempting to ground it and the motherboard better
Shuffled wires/cables around to keep things out of contact or from running parallel to each other
Tried all USB ports and front/rear analogue ports
Probably several other things - I am getting very exhausted working on this all the time.
Limiting frame rate in Nvidia Control Panel and Profile Inspector
Please let me know if you have any input or are suffering the same problem. I would really appreciate it and hopefully someone suffering a problem can find this post and learn something about their own situation from all the processing I have done. Specs:
Thermaltake H22 Mid Tower
MSI B350M Gaming Pro
AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Cooler Master Air Cooler
EVGA DDR4 3200Mhz 16Gb (2x16) Running in dual channel
Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060 Super Founders Edition 900-1G160-2565-000
2x Mechanical HDD (1 Toshiba, 1 "something else") 1x1TB, 1x2TB Both SATA
1x Samsung Evo m.2 SSD 500GB (boot, some games)
PowerSpec 550w 80+ Bronze non-modular
Windows 10 x64 Pro N Version 1903 Build 18362.1016
Mackie PROFX12v3 USB mixer
LiveWire power conditionesurge protector
Acer 27" XF 1080p 144hz/1ms monitor (connected via DP)
Sabrent powered USB hub
Audio Technica m50x
Logitech G502/G910 Mouse/Key respectively
Broken office chair and a broken spirit... please help me.
Thanks in advance. Update: In case this gets read by more than 3 people. Changed MOBO and PSU (independently and together - as separate tests) and nothing has changed.
What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.
I want to play Warzone and (soon) Cyberpunk 2077 on the best possible settings, with the ability to stream on Twitch.
What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?
Ideally, I want to be between $2000-$2500, but am financially willing to go up to $3000.
When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.
I am in no rush to buy the PC this week or this month. If I should wait for new processors and video cards that will be released in the fall, then I'll do that.
What, exactly, do you need included in the budget?
The best parts to support the highest video settings on a 4K monitor. CPU, CPU cooler, Mobo, GPU, PSU, Hard Drive, Case, Windows OS, additional USB ports, all that stuff
Pretty much everything but a mouse and keyboard.
Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?
US - no MicroCenter location near me
If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.
Just the mouse and keyboard
Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?
I have no desire to overclock
Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)
I definitely want at least a 1 TB SSD drive (ideally 2 TB's), but the other words are things I don't know about so I have no clue. Whatever will help me have the best gaming/streaming performance for my budget.
For $3000, I just want the best possible gaming & streaming setup I can get. I don't do video editing, or Bitcoin mining, or any of that. I want to play and stream games, stream videos, and browse the Internet with it.
What type of network connectivity do you need? (Wired and/or WiFi) If WiFi is needed and you would like to find the fastest match for your wireless router, please list any specifics.
I have a powerline adapter connection, so I'll need an Ethernet port
Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?
I want LED lighting, ideally blue and red
Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?
Yes, just a basic Win10
Extra info or particulars:
I want this PC to be built for me. I've built my own PC a few years ago and it took way longer than expected and received faulty hardware, so I will gladly pay extra to have someone else do it for me. Just the cable management alone is something I'm willing to pay an extra few Benjamin's for. For the aesthetic, I would like the case to be see-through with LED lights inside, with a white case.
Hi all Just finished what is technically my third unRaid build, and am so far very happy with how it turned out. My goal was to reduce noise, heat, and if im lucky electricity useage Been running an R620, first on ESXi for 4 years, then unRaid for the last two months. Since i've been working from home the last 4 months both the heat and the noise from that 1U chassis was getting unbareable. Even with manual fan control through IPMI and scripting auto-fan control it wasn't quiet enough whilst maintaining a reasonable temperature for the office (55-65C on idle. Exhaust temps between 75-80C idle). So a few days ago I liquidated some Bitcoin and Ethereum and built a new server! I'd already taken out one of the 2 CPU's from the R620 to make sure my workload was capable of running on 6C/12T @ 2.3GHz (I think) so I settled on the following: Ryzen 5 2600XAsus TUF B450M-Plus16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4bequiet Pure Power 11 400W psu1X 4TB WD Blue (shucked from an old MyBook) - Parity2x 2TB WD Purples (free from my dad) - Data1x 2TB Seagate BarraCuda - Data1x 100gb old Dell SSD - Cache (already had it... currently sat in the pool failing)1x 100gb old Intel SSD - Cache (already had it. In the pool incase the Dell dies) All wrapped up in a Fractal Define R6. Originally bought a bequiet Pure Base 500 accidentally thinking it could do more 3.5" drives than it could. Went with the Define as I like the look and I already have one with no mechanical drives so I have spare caddies. Also accidentally bought the USB-C version... so swapped that out quickly with my main rig! Ran out of SATA power from the PSU so currently waiting on a Molex-SATA power adapter so I can plug the front fan controller back in after adding the second WD Purple earlier today. It's currently sitting between 30-40C idle, and is quieter than my gaming PC at idle. So mission successful for the most part I guess!
So I recently started mining bitcoin with my gaming pc, and in it I have an Asus ROG 2080ti, on an Asus ROG e-gaming mobo, with an 850w psu. My question is if I were to add a second gpu, does it have to be the same as the first one, or could I go with a cheaper gpu that is still compatible with my mobo?
I think I'm addicted to upgrading my PC parts, seriously.
Hi, I've built my first PC in 2017, and my interest and passion for PCs and technology has turned into an addiction. I've only realized recently how bad this is getting when I looked at how much I'm spending on hardware in the past year. I'm making this post because I'm seriously in a shitty situation and I want people to not make the same mistakes as I did. Here is my story; In 2017, I had my very first PC, a 6600k with a 1050 Ti, nothing too high end, considering that people mining bitcoins drove prices to hell and the DRAM shortage made everything very expensive, so I ended up paying 800$ for something worth maybe 500. Then I moved to a new place, where I had enough desk space to put my PC on the desk, so I wanted a better case with tempered glass, so I paid 40$ for a new case and I dumped my old one. In 2018, I was selling some books on Facebook marketplace where I saw someone selling a hand made case for 60$, so I took it, and dumped my other case. Later that year, I bought a new monitor, because the old TN panel I bought for 70$ was quite power hungry and crappy, so I bought a new one for 130$, and dumped the old one. In 2019, there was a 144hz monitor at Costco for 150$, and I bought it, then realising that my 1050 Ti would struggle on it, I bought a used RX580 for 120$. The same day, I saw a listing for 2 mining RX580s with no display output for 100$, I took it, and used the 3 in crossfire, for little improvement. 2 months later, I wanted to overclock my CPU further, so I bought an expensive Z270 board, only to find out that I needed to get rid of one of my RX580, so I listed one for really cheap, but no one bought it after 2 months, I basically had a really expensive paperweight. In 2020, I bought a 40$ keyboard and a new 60$ mouse, only to buy another keyboard and another mouse and a new mouse pad. Sorry if this was a long read, but I'm making shitty decisions with buying computer hardware, even though I didn't need half the things I bought. The only thing I have left in my PC that were from the original 2017 build is the CPU and the PSU. I've burnt over 500$ worth of things that I didn't need in the first place, and I just needed to get this out. If you read the entire thing, thank you. If you didn't, I don't blame you, its the story of some dumbass that spent a bunch of money upgrading his perfectly good PC.
Is this PSU doable for my build or is it a really bad idea?
Here is my problem. I can't seem to find a PSU within a reasonable price range to save my life. (NEW not used or refurbed) EVGA 750-850w Gold and Plat, were both going for $360+. The rest seemed to be out of stock with no date in sight... And I am impatient. 200$ to me seems reasonable to spend on a solid PSU. I found a 750w Bronze Rosewill for $115. (Plus $15 for 3 year Newegg power warranty) (Also comes with a free bitcoin CPU riser, whatever the hell that is) Here is my build. Just tell me, is this doable, or is this such a bad idea that I might as well throw my components into the river now and save me the heartbreak later? I'm legit afraid that this isn't the way to go. My thought was, I can always swap it out down the road in a few weeks or months when I do find a better one. I just want to know, will my computer turn on or light my building on fire killing everyone? My mind has turned too mush after researching everything and reading so many Johnnyguru reviews that I do not trust my own judgement anymore regarding this final purchase. If anyone has this PSU please sound off on how it's doing for you. And any other general build advice is certainly appreciated. This is my first time truly building a PC on my own! Pretty excited. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JvFYYH CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor MOBO: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory Storage: Western Digital SN750 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case PSU: Rosewill Hive Series 750W Modular Gaming Power Supply, 80 PLUS Bronze Certified (Newegg) Using the stock cpu cooler from AMD for now, figured I can upgrade later if temps become an issue, I don't plan on doing any overclocking, but will be using it under pretty high loads so an AIO upgrade is def coming eventually. I will be getting some extra case fans, just have not decided on which ones to get. I want to be one of the cool kids with all their RGB, so any recommendations on that front would be great as well. ps. I am naming her Covi.
Post Bitcoin, my country is a heaven for Haswell-based PC gaming
Just want to share this "phenomenon" I've noticed for quite sometime. When my brother's mainboard failed, we thought of selling whatever that's left and upgrade to Ryzen. But it would never hurt to do another check, so I went on my wife's favourite online shopping platform to search for one. And voila, I found a B85 mainboard for ~$40. Their recommendation engine quickly kicked in. To my surprise, "8GB DDR3" is one of the most popular search keywords. This means a lot of people were looking for them, so Haswell builds must be popular. I know mine is still running well. So I decided to calculate the cost for a whole Haswell-based build, and this is what it cost to have an extremely decent gaming machine:
Chip: i5-4460, $80. Cost the most, obviously.
RAM: 2x8GB stick, $40. Advertised to be "HyperX Fury" or "Kingston" but definitely isn't. But they all come with 3 year warranty...
Mainboard: B85 for $40. More adventurous people can even go for a H41 at $20. Yes, 20 bucks.
PSU: "Antec" 450W for $15.
GPU: HIS RX580 8GB for $75.
Case: Xigmantek something for $25.
Total, minus HDD/SDD, monitor or mouse/kb: $275 There are, of course, a lot of risks:
The RAM is counterfeit. But I've 2 of these "counterfeit" for my build and so far haven't got any problem with them.
Mainboard: You never know when it'll break. The seller warranty is often only 1 month.
PSU: There are reports of 300W PSU with 450W stamp be pasted over. Of course you need to complain to the seller and the e-com site.
GPU: Obviously it came from a mining farm. The seller warranty is 1 month. There are, however, more comforting options. For example a MSI whose warranty will not be voided by farming cost ~$120. I had been using a ASUS RX 570 4GB (mining) for quite some time, and those are still working well.
And yes this build ins't going to win any speed contest, and the RX580 most likely gets bottlenecked by the CPU... But the beauty of this is, for $275, people can get a PC that can play pretty much ALL the AAA titles decently without breaking the bank. On my PC with similar configuration, I often get ~70-80fps out of TD1 and BF1. Even at Ultra in BF1, in smaller maps, I can still get ~60fps. This is something I don't think has ever happened. I don't recall being able to play AAA games on a $275 build. Thank you, Bitcoin crash. Edit: I just checked again and the price of the GPU went up, the cheapest RX 580 8GB now goes for ~$75. However $50 can still net you a RX 570 4GB, in this build the difference isn’t quite noticeable
OK, so I've been saving myself some money for quite some time now. This is going to be my first PC build (technically my 2nd one but I just watched my dad put the components together a few years back). Unfortunately, since the prices are almost double what they are in the USA here, I'll be building a mid-spec PC while I could've been building a much better PC if I was in the US. So here are the components of the PC I'm trying to build: Case: NZXT Manta White Mini ITX Case Mobo: MSI B450-I Gaming Plus AC CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 or 3600X (They're almost the same price for now) Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid AIO Ram: XPG Spectrix 3200 mhz 2x8GB GPU: MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT Mech OC 8GB PSU: Cooler Master V750 80+ Gold (I know it's overkill but my dad used to do bitcoin mining and I wanted to save some money on the PSU, also some white cable extentsion kit from Phanteks) For the storage, I'll be using an Adata 240GB SSD for now until I get the M.2 that I want. When I change the currency of the price total, it costs around 1500-1600 USD with tax (18%) if I'm not mistaken. Can you guys give me some tips for me to do this build correctly?
This is kind of a complicated issue so bear with me, but IMO, it's a pretty serious one. So, I upgraded my generator to 3, and started my upgrade for water collector 3, air filter, and bitcoin level 2. no problems. put fuel in the generator and let the game sit overnight. Next morning ( I usually leave my pc in sleep mode), I come back and log on, go to my hideout, and within 2-3 seconds, my pc shuts off. I get display signals on my monitor, and then I see the motherboard startup ( i.e Asus) , then my computer starts back up again. Keep in mind, it was the first thing I did with my computer, and I have never had a problem with thermals on my machine. It's strictly a gaming pc, and the only power that is drawn is to keep the bare minimum peripherals and computer components going. The same thing happened to me when I upgraded my workbench to level 2. The only way to fix it at the time was to try and quickly hit “install” and spam the escape key to go back to my character screen. Now, upon the 10th try, it does the same thing, but my fans started spinning at what sounded like max RPM for a few seconds. Rebooted, and then the same stuff happens. I then logged onto my brother's pc and it worked. No, I don't think this is a PSU problem. I have never had a power issue with my PC for the two years I’ve had it. Its 600w, not great but I have to mention it to avoid the inevitable “well if you had a 4million watt PSU this wouldn't be a problem!” I am making this post to try and find others with the same problem. As of now, there really doesn't seem like a realistic solution for me. I’ve sent in a bug report, but for now, I just have to deal with it. Hopefully, someone knows a way around this. I’d appreciate any help. ______ PC SPECS: Ryzen 1700 GTX 1070Ti Asus B450 16gb Viper DDR4 (This bug is for the current patch (12.4.6465) )
In the beginning there was a Boy. One Christmas, he met a Macintosh Performa, but was not his PC. That boy used the tutorials to learn the mouse, and discovered video games on a Shareware disk. Hard games, like Eat My Photons! and U Mac Rogue. Back then, the internet was a series of pages with words and pictures, accessible through a noisy portal named AOL. He had no PC, but his dad bought a DOS emulator so he could play Commander Keen. Life was simple. One day the boy's best friend turned 7. He got a present -- a cool video game in a weird box! But it wouldn't work on his computer. He came over to the Boy's house to play it on his Mac. It was Bungie's Marathon! The friend used the mouse, while the boy used the keyboard. Together they played. It was scary! And fun! And so began a journey... When the boy was old enough to earn a wage, he saved his dollars, because the following year, a spectacular game was coming out--and his current computer wouldn't be strong enough! The boy researched and planned and spent his life savings on Newegg. Parts arrived on his doorstep in ones and twos, and he assembled them into a whole. He was playing Supreme Commander with his friends, but that was just the beginning of a wonderful friendship. The years went on and their bond grew deeper. Steam came out, and Humble Indie Bundle, and even free games were becoming top-tier! What a time to be alive. The years went by, and by and by, they drifted apart. Even with a new GPU, and then a new PSU when the first one blew -- there was only so much you could do when the socket was AM2... The year of the future arrived. If hindsight were 2020, maybe the Boy would have done things differently. Maybe he would have cared more about his friend. Maybe he would have stuck with Folding at Home way back when, instead of dismissing it as a fan-spinning fad. He definitely would have bought some Bitcoin back when he saw that first picture of somebody's pizza... He plugged it back in. Ran some updates. And now that old computer earns 1172 points per day. It might not run Crysis, but if computer people were real, I'm sure they would be smiling. Together again.
Hideout is rebooting my PC when installing upgrades or after 30seconds.
Has anyone had any issues with the hideout crashing or force crashing there PC? I’ve had this issue with some of the upgrades from level one to level two. When I installed the upgrade after the upgrade timer. I would here the construction sound and then my workstation hard crashes and reboots. It feels like it’s related to a sound issue but now since I have some of the end game upgrades like the bitcoin farm, I can only use that hideout for about 30seconds before my PC hard Reboots.. I swear it starts when the song on the radio begins but haven’t confirm with enough try’s yet. I have tried turning off sounds and even turning off onboard sound via bios plus a fresh install for 0.12 yet still no change. The only thing I can do is use my wife’s PC to do stuff in the hideout and then log back into my PC which has no issue’s during gameplay / trader menus etc. Has anyone got any recommendations if they have had this issue and how they resolved it? ******* update 12.3 - We have a fix ladies and gents!! *************** "Copy and paste from prepperdoc below" I finally found the solution. Something in the code of the hideout as well as interchange causes a surge in the power draw from the PSU and you get a Kernel 41 error and a brown out. My RTX 2080ti has 3 power ports on it. I had 2 power cables coming from the PSU supplying these 3 outlets (1 cable was supplying 2 of them). I added a third cable so each power port on the GPU had its own dedicated power cable and the problem was definitively solved.
Hi, I have tried to build my own, but it appears like I've gotten rusty in this. It has also reached prices beyond my expectations. But I want to keep it for about 7-10 years. What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using. I don't plan to use this for gaming or bitcoin mining. I will process a lot of text from external sources, compute numbers, and train some deep learning models. What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes? 4000 USD / 36000 NOK. When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy. ASAP What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc) Things I would want: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (or something fast that has 16+ cores; I will run highly parallel jobs) GPU: GeForce RTX 2080 Ti (large memory is preferred) Memory: 32GB (or more) Motherboard: Preferably an X570 with PCIe 4.0 NVMe support. WiFi would be nice, because there is no network cabling around that area. USB-C heads would be nice, but not required. Case: USB-C is required. I prefer white, silvegrey, but black would be fine as well. No disc drive needed. Storage: NVMe (1 TB should be enough for me, I suppose). I already have an SSD inside my old machine. PSU: 850W or higher would be good. I have plans to install another card in that. Fans: I have no idea how many I need, nor where to mount them. Something less noisy would be nice. If water cooling is less-noisy and comparable in terms of pricing, I can go for water cooling. Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location? Norway If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated. SSD (Samsung evo 850), keyboard, mouse, monitor. Brands of those don't matter. Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU? Most likely, no. However, it appears like both the CPU and the GPU can be overclocked to a certain extent. Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc) CUDA and OpenCL support would be required. I already have an SSD. But an NVMe drive is needed. Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components? I don't like LED lighting. I prefer white, silver or grey cases. Size doesn't matter as long as I can place 2 full size PCIe cards in that. I don't like window, but don't mind if a cheap model has that. Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference? No. It will run Linux. Extra info or particulars: Nothing apart from those. I would be very happy, if you could help me build something along these lines.
As many others did, I got a stimulus payment today. I also got a raise and a bonus on my last paycheck. So I'm looking to get some upgrades. I desperately need a new GPU. When I built my PC 2 years ago, I re-used my old graphics card because the bitcoin miners inflated the prices so high. So I'm looking to upgrade my CPU and GPU now. Current specs: 650W gold rated PSU, 16GB DDR4, Ryzen 1500X, Geforce GTX 960 2GB. Monitor is 1080p 60hz, but I do plan on buying a high refresh rate monitor in the future. I've already decided to upgrade the CPU to a 3600 or 3600X. That was an easy decision. My main problem is I don't have enough VRAM for anything that's come out in the past year or so. I've been looking at mid range cards like the 5600XT and 1660 Super or 2060 RTX. The thing that concerns me, is those cards only have 6GB VRAM, and in the benchmarks I've watched, I see some games are already using over 5GB. With a new console generation launching soon, I'd imagine games are going to start using more VRAM. So I really want to go with 8GB. The other thing that concerns me, is I've only ever bought one video card from team red before. That was a Radeon HD 5770. I had nothing but problems with it. It would crash and blackscreen like every 10 minutes, and I reached out on the official forums, there were quite a few of us with the same issue. I waited for the driver to fix it, never got fixed, so I ended up buying a 560 TI. Now looking at the 5600XT and 5700, I'm hearing the AMD is still having driver issues. That's a shame, because they seem to be beating Nvidia in price to performance. So now I'm considering a 2060 Super, but the price is making me hesitate. So question is, what is the best graphics card to pair with my Ryzen 3600 upgrade?
Tips for Building a 6K editing PC w/ more than 1 GPU (Resolve)
Hi editing ! I'm new to building a PC and lucked out on getting 3 x 1080 ti's for free from my brothers old bitcoin mining rig. I shoot and edit my own videos, Ursa Mini 4.6K, 4.6K Lossless files (moving to RED Dragon 6K files in the new year with the RED Komodo 6k). I would like to edit with as little proxy-ing as possible, I know its totally unnecessary to have it playback at full res but my current computer cant even handle 720p proxies... I currently edit on a 2013 Macbook Pro, mid-range. Timeline 1080p 24fps, Delivery 1080p (vimeo) Ideally I will be taking 4.6k lossless files, as well as 6k 6:1 compressed files and editing in 4K 24fps proxy for 4K delivery. My buddy told me I will be fine with just one 1080 ti, but I already have 3 so I figure I might as well put them to use. I'm wondering if I can put all 3 of them into this sub $1500 rig. The PC I am about to build will go like this: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor MB: Asus ROG STRIX X470-F Gaming ATX AM4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD Storage: Western Digital 1 TB HDD GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card **GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card** **(NON-SLI)** CASE: Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case PSU: **EVGA BQ 850 W 80+ Bronze semi-modular ATX** **(Need a 1000 W 80+ Gold if i have more than 2 GPU's)** Most of the information I have found about 2 GPU's is SLI, but I have also read that DaVinci works better with 2 separate dedicated GPU's. Does anyone have any advice on whether or not 2-way SLI is better? Can I do 3-way Crossfire with this build? Can I have 3 GPU's non-SLI? Can I dedicate just 1 GPU for debayering in the background? Can I dedicate 1 GPU for rendering only? Thanks in advance!
Geez, I'm middle aged now. Help me tweak my build.
I have a toddler now, and I can't completely re-educate myself for 2019 parts, so I'm hoping you all can help me figure out if/how I'm going wrong, or if I can get better value for money.
My rig from 2010 is on its last legs, and I'm looking to replace. (In case anyone's nostalgic, it's an i5-760//4GB//Radeon HD5800)
I don't want anyone to build this for me - I'm just looking for advice. My budget is in the 600-900 range. I'm not looking to max-out my budget, but I'd love to know if there are places where I can get better value for money. I'm in Connecticut. Keyboard, mouse, speakers, and monitor are separate. I'm fine on my own with that.
Use Case - probably pretty light. Productivity: I'd like to be able to either dual-monitor or use a 4k (not both at the same time). Gaming: Single monitor, 1080P, and not necessarily the latest and greatest. I'm a patient gamer, and considering my next game will be Axiom Verge or something N64-era. Overclocking is not expected. My toddler may end up using it for awhile, but I'm sure he'll need a new one by the time he's 8 or so.
Am I wasting money with both a 2200G AND dedicated graphics? If so, will the CPU be enough for me, or ought I go with a different chip/card combo?
I kind of guessed at the Graphics card, based on the stickied builds and number of reviews. I'm happy to hear suggestions.
Do I need a separate cooleheatsink? (judging from the stickied builds, no?) Does the CPU come with a stock one?
I could save a few bucks with a 0.25TB SSD. Meh, I'll go with 0.5TB.
I could probably go for 8GB memory, but 16GB may make it last longer.
HDD reliability is pretty important to me. Any insights on manufacturer reputations are very welcome.
Boring cases are fine.
Thanks to all for your help!
Edit: Learning to format.
Edit 2: Guys, GUYS! There's been a lot of really good suggestions here. Thanks to everyone.
But we're not maxing out the budget for the sake of it. Check out the use case - or the title! I gave up on current-level graphics and FPS games some time ago. I'm not paying $250 for a graphics card (or competing with BitCoin miners).
In fact, how far could I downgrade my graphics card, and still hit my targets for desktop apps (and still be able to do much older games)? For games, let's target: "I could ably play MineCraft without gameplay problems, but the graphics might be mid-level."
Upgraded the processor - thanks, dar! The 2600X was only $10 extra so I went with that. Changed the Storage solution to a SSD. - thanks lild. Changed PSU. - thanks lild. Removed Windows 10 - will look into that, but it's not something that needs to go into compatibility/performance discussions.
Cant run games on full screen DX 12, stutter under 20 fps CPU Usage 100%
My system cant no longer run games in full screen. When I try to run them they stutter horribly under DX 12 Full screen. I have to run them in windowed mode for them to run flawlessly at 60fps+ I just ran into this problem 2 weeks ago when My monitor crapped out. Now when I play WoW in DX 12 in full screen is runs like Garbage under 20fps and stutters with cpu usage at 100% I had to run it in window mode, to get it to run flawlessly I had to run it under DX 11. I ran Ghostbusters the Video Game Remastered and it runs flawlessly. Other games like the Division 2 runs at 10fps in full screen but runs flawlessly in Windows mode. I've ran all virus programs that are available on techsupportgore and havent found any viruses, bitcoin miners etc. This has me stumped and I can use some help diagnosing this problem. here is the DXdiag for my system settings for my specs. Windows 10 Pro 64bit Insider build 19008vb_release 191019-1715 2 EVGA 1080 FTW in SLI with Nvidia Experience Drivers 440.97 Intel I5 6600k 3.50Ghz. Asus Sabretooth Z170 S Bios 3801 32GB Corsair DDR4 running at 1066MHZ Thermaltake RGB 750W PSU WDC WDS500G1B0B-00AS40 500.1GB M.2 SSD One odd problem is when I run CPU-Z and drag it, it moves really slow till it arrives at the spot where I finished dragging it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pXT_buGPaci8T883QEq79GHfgZ8EcsXJ DxDiag.txt Update!! Thank you all for the Help. I just gave up and reformatted my PC. Turs out Windows Insider builds suck with DX 12 game. Thanks for the Help!
I literally have tens of thousands of dollars in top-shelf hardware, looking to repurpose some before selling on eBay to build a NAS system, possibly a dedicated firewall device as well. o_O
Q1) What will you be doing with this PC? Be as specific as possible, and include specific games or programs you will be using.** A1) This will be a dedicated NAS system for my home network. As such, I'm looking to have it: - Host ##TB's of 720, 1080 & up resolution Movies and TV Shows I'm about to begin ripping from a MASSIVE DVD & Blueray collection I have. - My kids are big on Minecraft. I understand it's possible to host your own "worlds" (or whatever they call the maps you can build) on your own "server". I think it would be pretty neat to offer them (& their friends - if can be done 'safely/securely') their own partition on one of my NAS HDD's. - I also have accounts with a couple diff VPN companies... I understand it's possible (?) to sync said VPN's with a NAS, this might be a more relative topic on the next point/purpose... - I'd like to be able to remotely link to this NAS for when I travel overseas and want to stream at my temp location from my house/this NAS. ______________________ Q2) What is your maximum budget before rebates/shipping/taxes?** * A2) Here's where I make matters more complicated than most others would... I've been an advocate for Bitcoin and crypto-currencies in general since 2013. I invested in a small mining outfit back in 2014 (strictly Bitcoin/ASIC's). One of my buddies is the President of a large-scale mining operation (foreign and domestic) and he convinced me to dabble in the GPU mining-space. I made my first hardware purchase in Q4, 2017 and launched a small-scale GPU-Farm in my house since then. I had the rigs mining up until Q3 of 2018 (not cost-efficient to keep on, especially living in SoFlo) and since then, the hardware's been collecting dust (& pissing off my family members since they lost access to 3X rooms in the house - I won't let anyone go near my gear). One of my New Years Resolutions for 2019 was to clear out the house of all my mining equipment so that's all about to go up on eBay. So "budget" is relative to whatever I "MUST" spend if I can't repurpose any of the parts I already have on hand for this build... (Anyone having something I "need" and is looking to barter for one of the items I'll list later on in here, LMK). ______________________ Q3) When do you plan on building/buying the PC? Note: beyond a week or two from today means any build you receive will be out of date when you want to buy.** A3) IMMEDIATELY! :) ______________________ Q4) What, exactly, do you need included in the budget? (ToweOS/monitokeyboard/mouse/etc\)** A4) Well I had a half-assed idea approximately 1 year ago that it might be wise to build a bunch of 'gaming rigs' to sell on eBay with my intended repurposed mining hardware so I went on a shopping spree for like 6 months. That said; I've got a plethora of various other components that aren't even unboxed yet. 90% of the items I've purchased for this additional project were items that were marked down via MIR (mail-in-rebates) & what-not...
AFAIK, there are only 3X items I absolutely do not have which I 'MUST' find. Those would be - 1) Motherboard which accepts "ECC RAM". 2) CPU for said MOBO. 3) Said "ECC RAM".\*
______________________ Q5) Which country (and state/province) will you be purchasing the parts in? If you're in US, do you have access to a Microcenter location?** A5) I'm located in Southwest Florida. No Microcenter's here. Best Buy is pretty much my only option although I am a member of Newegg, Amazon & Costco if that makes any difference? ______________________ Q6) If reusing any parts (including monitor(s)/keyboard/mouse/etc), what parts will you be reusing? Brands and models are appreciated.** A6) In an attempt to better clean up this Q&A, I'm going to list the items I have on-hand at the end of this questionnaire in-case passers-by feel like this might be a TLDR.* (Scroll to the bottom & you'll see what I mean). ______________________ Q7) Will you be overclocking? If yes, are you interested in overclocking right away, or down the line? CPU and/or GPU?** A7) I don't think that's necessary for my intended purpose although - I'm not against it if that helps & FWIW, I'm pretty skilled @ this task already (it's not rocket science). ______________________ Q8) Are there any specific features or items you want/need in the build? (ex: SSD, large amount of storage or a RAID setup, CUDA or OpenCL support, etc)** A8) As stated in A4; ECC RAM is non-negotiable... RAID seems like a logical application here as well. - This will predominantly be receiving commands from MacOS computers. I don't think that matters really but figured it couldn't hurt to let you guys know.\* - I'd also be quite fond of implementing "PFSENSE" (or something of that caliber) applied to this system so I could give my Netgear Nighthawks less stress in that arena, plus my limited understanding of PFSENSE is that it's ability to act as a firewall runs circles around anything that comes with consumer-grade Wi-Fi routers (like my Nighthawks). Just the same, I'm open to building a second rig just for the firewall.\* - Another desirable feature would be that it draws as little electricity from the wall as possible. (I'm EXTREMELY skilled in this arena. I have "Kill-A-Watts" to test/gauge on, as well as an intimate understanding of the differences between Silver, Gold, Platinum and Titanium rated PSU's. As well as having already measured each of the PSU's I have on-hand and taken note of the 'target TDP draw' ("Peak Power Efficiency Draw") each one offers when primed with X amount of GPU's when I used them for their original purpose.\* - Last, but not least, sound (as in noise created from the rig). I'd like to prop this device up on my entertainment center in the living room. I've (almost) all of the top-shelf consumer grade products one could dream of regarding fans and other thermal-related artifacts. - Almost forgot; this will be hosting to devices on the KODI platform (unless you guys have better alternative suggestions?) ______________________ Q9) Do you have any specific case preferences (Size like ITX/microATX/mid-towefull-tower, styles, colors, window or not, LED lighting, etc), or a particular color theme preference for the components?** A9) Definitely! Desired theme would be WHITE. If that doesn't work for whatever reason, black or gray would suffice. Regarding "Case Size". Nah, that's not too important although I don't foresee a mini-ITX build making sense if I'm going to be cramming double digit amounts of TB in the system, Internal HDD's sounds better than a bunch of externals plugged in all the USB ports. ______________________ Q10) Do you need a copy of Windows included in the budget? If you do need one included, do you have a preference?** A10) I don't know. If I do need a copy of Windows, I don't have one so that's something I'll have to consider I guess. I doubt that's a necessity though. ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ **Extra info or particulars:*\* AND NOW TO THE FUN-STUFF... Here's a list of everything (PARTS PARTS PARTS) I have on-hand and ready to deploy into the wild &/or negotiate a trade/barter with: CASES - Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 Arctic White (Model# Crypto-Currency-9011048-WW) - (Probably my top pick for this build). Cooler Master HAF XB EVO (This is probably my top 1st or 2nd pick for this build, the thing is a monster!). Cooler Master Elite 130 - Mini ITX - Black Cooler Master MasterBox 5 MID-Tower - Black & White Raidmax Sigma-TWS - ATX - White MasterBox Lite 5 - ATX - Black w/ diff. Colored accent attachments (included with purchase) NZXT S340 Elite Matte White Steel/Tempered Glass Edition EVGA DG-76 Alpine White - Mid Tower w/ window EVGA DG-73 Black - Mid Tower w/ window (I have like 3 of these) ______________________ CPU's - ***7TH GEN OR BELOW INTEL's ("Code Name Class mentioned next to each one)**\* Pentium G4400 (Skylake @54W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE" Celeron G3930 (Kaby Lake @ 51W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC CAPABLE" :) i5 6402P (Skylake @65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i5 6600k (Skylake @ 91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i7 6700 (Skylake @ 65W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( i7 7700k (Kaby Lake @ 95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( ***8TH GEN INTEL's **\* i3-8350K (Coffee Lake @91W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "ECC FRIENDLY" :) I5-8600K (Coffee Lake @95W TDP) - Intel ARK states is "NOT ECC CAPABLE" :( ***AMD RYZEN's **\* Ryzen 3 2200G Ryzen 5 1600 Ryzen 7 1700X ______________________ MOTHERBOARDS - ***7TH GEN AND BELOW INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\* MSI Z170A-SLI ASUS PRIME Z270-A ASUS PRIME Z270-P ASUS PRIME Z270-K EVGA Z270 Stinger GIGABYTE GA-Z270XP-SLI MSI B150M ARCTIC MSI B250M MICRO ATX (PRO OPT. BOOST EDITION) ***8TH GEN INTEL BASED MOBO'S - **\* EVGA Z370 FTW GIGABYTE Z370XP SLI (Rev. 1.0) MSI Z370 SLI PLUS ***AMD RYZEN BASED MOBO'S - **\* ASUS ROG STRIX B350-F GAMING MSI B350 TOMAHAWK MSI X370 GAMING PRO ASROCK AB350M PRO4 ______________________ RAM - Way too many to list, nothing but 4 & 8GB DDR4 sticks and unfortunately, none are ECC so it's not even worth mentioning/listing these unless someone reading this is willing to barter. At which time I'd be obliged to send an itemized list or see if I have what they're/you're specifically looking for.\* ______________________ THERMAL APPLICATIONS/FANS - JUST FANS - BeQuiet - Pure Wings 2 (80mm) Pure Wings 2 (120mm) Pure Wings 2 (140mm) Silent Wings 3 PWM (120mm) NOCTUA - PoopBrown - NF-A20 PWM (200mm) Specifically for the BIG "CoolerMaster HAF XB EVO" Case GREY - NF-P12 Redux - 1700RPM (120mm) PWM Corsair - Air Series AF120LED (120mm) CPU COOLING SYSTEMS - NOCTUA - NT-HH 1.4ml Thermal Compound NH-D15 6 Heatpipe system (this thing is the tits) EVGA (Extremely crappy coding in the software here, I'm like 99.99% these will be problematic if I were to try and use in any OS outside of Windows, because they barely ever work in the intended Windows as it is). CLC 240 (240mm Water-cooled system CRYORIG - Cryorig C7 Cu (Low-Profile Copper Edition*) A few other oversized CPU cooling systems I forget off the top of my head but a CPU cooler is a CPU cooler after comparing to the previous 3 models I mentioned. I almost exclusively am using these amazing "Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pads" as an alternative to thermal paste for my CPU's. They're not cheap but they literally last forever. NZXT - Sentry Mesh Fan Controller ______________________ POWER SUPPLIES (PSU's) - BeQuiet 550W Straight Power 11 (GOLD) EVGA - 750P2 (750W, Platinum) 850P2 (850W, Platinum) 750T2 (750W, TITANIUM - yeah baby, yeah) ROSEWILL - Quark 750W Platinum Quark 650W Platinum SEASONIC - Focus 750W Platinum ______________________ STORAGE - HGST Ultrastar 3TB - 64mb Cache - 7200RPM Sata III (3.5) 4X Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD's 2X Team Group L5 LITE 3D 2.5" SSD's 480GB 2X WD 10TB Essential EXT (I'm cool with shucking) + 6X various other external HDD's (from 4-8TB) - (Seagate, WD & G-Drives) ______________________ Other accessories worth mentioning - PCI-E to 4X USB hub-adapter (I have a dozen or so of these - might not be sufficient enough &/or needed but again, 'worth mentioning' in case I somehow ever run out of SATA & USB ports and have extra external USB HDD's. Although, I'm sure there would be better suited components if I get to that point that probably won't cost all that much). ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ Needless to say, I have at least 1X of everything mentioned above. In most all cases, I have multiples of these items but obviously won't be needing 2X CPU's, Cases, etc... Naturally, I have GPU's. Specifically; At least 1X of every. Single. NVIDIA GTX 1070 TI (Yes, I have every variation of the 1070 ti made by MSI, EVGA and Zotac. The only brand I don't have is the Gigabyte line. My partners have terrible experience with those so I didn't even bother. I'm clearly not going to be needing a GPU for this build but again, I'm cool with discussing the idea of a barter if anyone reading this is in the market for one. I also have some GTX 1080 TI's but those are already spoken for, sorry. It's my understanding that select CPU's I have on this list are ECC Friendly and AFAIK, only 1 of my MOBO's claims to be ECC Friendly (The ASROCK AB350M PRO4), but for the life of me, I can't find any corresponding forums that confirm this and/or direct me to a listing where I can buy compatible RAM. Just the same, if I go w/ the ASROCK MOBO, that means I'd be using one of the Ryzens. Those are DEF. power hungry little buggers. Not a deal-breaker, just hoping to find something a little more conservative in terms of TDP. In closing, I don't really need someone to hold my hand with the build part as much as figuring out which motherboard, CPU and RAM to get. Then I'm DEFINITELY going to need some guidance on what OS is best for my desired purpose. If building 2X Rigs makes sense, I'm totally open to that as well... Rig 1 = EPIC NAS SYSTEM Rig 2 = EPIC PFSENSE (or the like) DEDICATED FIREWALL Oh, I almost forgot... The current routers I'm using are... 1X Netgear Nighthawk 6900P (Modem + Router) 1X Netgear Nighthawk X6S (AC 4000 I believe - Router dedicated towards my personal devices - no IoT &/or Guests allowed on this one) 1X TP-Link Archer C5 (Router). Total overkill after implementing the Nighthawks but this old beast somehow has the best range, plus it has 2X USB ports so for now, it's dedicated towards my IoT devices. ---- I also have a few other Wi-Fi routers (Apple Airport Extreme & some inferior Netgear's but I can only allocate so many WiFi Routers to so many WiFi channels w/out pissing off my neighbors) On that note, I have managed to convince my neighbors to let me in their house/WiFi configuration so we all have our hardware locked on specific, non-competing frequencies/channels so everyone's happy. :) Please spare me the insults as I insulted myself throughout this entire venture. Part of why I did this was because when I was a kid, I used to fantasize about building a 'DREAM PC' but could never afford such. To compensate for this deficiency, I would actually print out the latest and greatest hardware components on a word document, print the lists up & tape to wall (for motivation). I was C++ certified at the age of 14 and built my first PC when I was 7. At the age of 15 I abandoned all hope in the sector and moved on to other aspirations. This entire ordeal was largely based off me finally fulfilling a childhood fantasy. On that note = mission accomplished. Now if I'm actually able to fulfill my desires on this post, I'm definitely going to feel less shitty about blowing so much money on all this stuff over the last couple years. TIA for assisting in any way possible. Gotta love the internets! THE END. :) EDIT/UPDATE (5 hours after OP) - My inbox is being inundated with various people asking for prices and other reasonable questions about my hardware being up for sale. Not to be redundant but rather to expound on my previous remarks about 'being interested in a bartetrade' with any of you here... I did say I was going to sell my gear on eBay in the near future, I also said I wanted to trade/barter for anything relative to helping me accomplish my OP's mission(s). I'm not desperate for the $$$ but I'm also not one of those people that likes to rip other people off. That said; I value my time and money invested in this hardware and I'm only willing to unload it all once I've established I have ZERO need for any of it here in my home first. Hence my writing this lengthy thread in an attempt to repurpose at least a grand or two I've already spent. One of the most commonly asked questions I anticipate receiving from interested bodies is going to be "How hard were you on your hardware?" Contrary to what anyone else would have probably done in my scenario which is say they were light on it whether they were or weren't, I documented my handling of the hardware, and have no problem sharing such documentation with verified, interested buyers (WHEN THE TIME COMES) to offer you guys peace of mind. I have photo's and video's of the venture from A-Z. I am also obliged to provide (redacted) electricity bill statements where you can correlate my photo's (power draw on each rig), and also accurately deduct the excess power my house consumed with our other household appliances. Even taking into consideration how much (more) I spent in electricity from keeping my house at a constant, cool 70-72F year-round (via my Nest thermostat). Even without the rigs, I keep my AC @ 70 when I'm home and for the last 1.5-2 years, I just so happened to spend 85% of my time here at my house. When I would travel, I'd keep it at 72 for my wife & kids. Additionally; I had each GPU 'custom' oveunderclocke'd (MSI Afterburner for all GPU's but the EVGA's).* I doubt everyone reading this is aware so this is for those that don't.... EVGA had the brilliant idea of implementing what they call "ICX technology" in their latest NVIDIA GTX GPU's. The short(est) explanation of this "feature" goes as follows: EVGA GPU's w/ "ICX 9 & above" have EXTRA HEAT/THERMAL SENSORS. Unlike every other GTX 1070 ti on the market, the one's with this feature actually have each of 2/2 on-board fans connected to individual thermal sensors. Which means - if you were to use the MSI Afterburner program on one of these EVGA's and create a custom fan curve for it, you'd only be able to get 1/2 of the fans to function the way intended. The other fan simply would not engage as the MSI Afterburner software wasn't designed/coded to recognize/ communicate with an added sensor (let alone sensor'S). This, in-turn, would likely result in whoever's using it the unintended way having a GPU defect on them within the first few months I'd imagine... Perhaps if they had the TDP power settings dumbed down as much as I did (60-63%), they might get a year or two out of it since it wouldn't run as near as hot, but I doubt any longer than that since cutting off 50% of the cooling system on one of these can't be ignored too long, surely capacitors would start to blow and who knows what else... (Warning = RANT) Another interesting side-note about the EVGA's and their "Precision-X" OveUnderclocking software is that it's designed to only recognize 4X GPU's on a single system. For miners, that's just not cool. My favorite builds had 8X and for the motherboards that weren't capable of maintaining stable sessions on 8, I set up with 6X. Only my EVGA Rigs had 3 or 4X GPU's dedicated to a single motherboard. Furthermore, and as stated in an earlier paragraph, (& this is just my opinion) = EVGA SOFTWARE SUCKS! Precision X wasn't friendly with every motherboard/CPU I threw at it and their extension software for the CLC Close-Loop-Cooling/ CPU water-coolers simply didn't work on anything, even integrating into their own Precision-X software. The amount of time it took me to finally find compatible matches with that stuff was beyond maddening. (END RANT). Which leads me to my other comments on the matter. That's what I had every single 1070 ti set at for TDP = 60-63%. Dropping the power load that much allowed me to bring down (on average) each 1070 ti to a constant 110-115W (mind you, this is only possible w/ "Titanium" rated PSU's, Platinum comes pretty damn close to the Titanium though) while mining Ethereum and was still able to maintain a bottom of 30 MH/s and a ceiling of 32 MH/s. Increasing the TDP to 80, 90, 100% or more only increased my hashrates (yields) negligibly, like 35-36 MH/s TOPS, which also meant each one was not only pulling 160-180W+ (Vs. the aforementioned 115'ish range), it also meant my rigs were creating a significantly greater amount of heat! Fortunately for the GPU's and my own personal habits, I live in South Florida where it's hot as balls typically, last winter was nothing like this one. Increasing my yields by 10-15% didn't justify increasing the heat production in my house by >30%, nor the added electricity costs from subjecting my AC handlers to that much of an extra work-load. For anyone reading this that doesn't know/understand what I'm talking about - after spending no less than 2-3 hours with each. and. every. one. I didn't play with the settings on just one and universally apply the settings to the rest. I found the 'prime' settings and documented them with a label-maker and notepad. Here's the math in a more transparent manner: *** I NEVER LET MY GPU's BREACH 61C, EVER. Only my 8X GPU rigs saw 60-61 & it was the ones I had in the center of the build (naturally). I have REALLY high power fans (used on BTC ASIC MINERS) that were sucking air from those GPU's which was the only way I was able to obtain such stellar results while mining with them. **\* Mining at "acceptable" heat temps (not acceptable to me, but most of the internet would disagree = 70C) and overclocking accordingly brings in X amount of yields per unit. = 'Tweaking' (underclocking) the GPU's to my parameters reduced my yield per unit from -10-15%, but it SAVED me well over 30-35% in direct electricity consumption, and an unknown amount of passive electricity consumption via creating approximately 20%+ less heat for my AC handler to combat. I say all this extra stuff not just for anyone interested in mining with their GPU's, but really to answer (in-depth) the apparent questions you people are asking me in PM's. Something else that should help justify my claims of being so conservative should be the fact I only have/used "Platinum and Titanium" rated PSU's. Heat production, power efficiency and longevity of the hardware were ALWAYS my top priority.* . I truly thought Crypto would continue to gain and/or recover and bounce back faster than it did. If this project had maintained positive income for 12 months+, I'd have expanded one of our sites to also cater to GPU mining on a gnarly scale. Once I have my NAS (& possibly 2nd rig for the firewall) successfully built, I'll be willing/able to entertain selling you guys some/all of the remaining hardware prior to launching on eBay. If there's something you're specifically looking for that I listed having, feel free to PM me with that/those specific item(s). Don't count on an immediate response but what you can count on is me honoring my word in offering whoever asks first right of refusal when the time comes for me to sell this stuff. Fortunately for me, PM's are time-stamped so that's how I'll gauge everyone's place in line. I hope this extra edit answers most of the questions you guys wanted to have answered and if not, sorry I guess. I'll do my best to bring light to anything I've missed out on after I realize whatever that error was/is. The only way anyone is getting first dibs on my hardware otherwise is if they either offer compelling insight into my original questions, or have something I need to trade w/. THE END (Round#2)
Download their software and run it (this used to be "????")
Once you reach 0.002 BTC (about 7-10 days on my GTX 1060 + i7-7700k), you can transfer your earnings to Coinbase for free, and cash out. CB does have fees for conversion to Fiat (cash) and your percentage goes down with higher amounts. So don't cash out just because you can. Cash out when you have enough to buy something. Also a note on taxes. I'm going to keep this simple.
If you cash out regularly, treat it as income on your taxes.
If you hold it and cash out after a year, treat it as a capital gain (generally, a lower tax rate for most)
If you buy something with BTC, this is the same as cashing out, for tax purposes. Treat it as income.
Hi folks. I just want to thank those of you in advance who trudge through this post. It's going to be long. I will try to have a TLDR at the end, so just scroll down for the bolded text if you want Cliff's Notes. Disclaimer: I'm a miner, sort of. I casually mine when I sleep/work, using my existing PC. It doesn't make much. I don't buy hardware for mining. But, I still wanted to post this disclaimer in the interest of fairness. As we all know, cryptocurrency mining has had a devastating impact on the PC gaming ecosystem. The demand for GPUs for mining has lead to scarce availability and sky high prices for relevant hardware. But even hardware that is less desirable for mining relative to their peers (GTX 1050ti, 1080) has been impacted. Why? Because when gamers can't get the 1060 or 1070 that they desire, they gravitate en masse towards something that their finances will allow them to settle for. But for all that we know about mining, there's still a LOT of myth and misinformation out there. And I blame this on the bigger miners themselves. They have a few tactics they're using to discourage competition. Now, why would they do this? Simply put, the more coins are mined, the harder the algorithms get. That means the same hardware mines a lower rate of cryptocurrency over time. If the mining rates were to get too low before new hardware (Volta/Navi) could be released, it would cause a massive depression in the cryptocurrency market. Most hardware would become unprofitable, and used GPUs would flood the market. Miners want to retain profitability on current hardware until the next generation hardware is out. So, what tactics are they engaging in? Silence and manipulation. On the former, the bigger miners don't usually participate and contribute to the community (there are exceptions, and they are greatly appreciated). They're sponges, taking whatever the community provides without returning much to the community. On the latter, they post here, in this very sub occasionally. And they continue to push certain types of myth/misinformation to discourage other users from mining. And why, of all people, would you discourage gamers from mining? It's because of the competition point mentioned above. If a massive number of gamers entered the cryptocurrency mining market, it could trigger a mining apocalypse. There's an estimated 3-4 million current-gen GPUs being used in 24/7 mining operations by dedicated miners. Now, how many current-gen GPUs are used by gamers? I'd bet at least an equal amount. But what about Maxwell and Kepler? Or all those GCN-based GPUs up through Fiji? Bottom line is that when you factor in all available profitable GPUs, gamers drastically outnumber dedicated miners (yes, Kepler and GCN 1.0 are still profitable, barely). And if a large number of those users started casually mining as I am, the following would occur:
difficulty would increase, lower output (profitability) for everyone involved
Coin creation would initially accelerate, and with no massive change to the market cap, that means per-coin value drops
when you factor in slower coin generation for individual miners, coupled with lower coin value, you get...
ROI length increase on GPUs, depressing their values, which would lead to lower prices and higher availability
Oh dear, someone just spilled the beans... So naturally, misinformation needs to be spread. If dedicated miners can keep the uninformed, well, uninformed, they're less likely to join in. And I've seen variations of the following misinformation spread. Here's the common tropes, and my rebuttal.
Mining on your GPU will cause it to die prematurely.
I really wish we had a Blackblaze-equivalent for GPUs used in data centers. NOTHING punishes a GPU like full-time use in a data center. Not mining, not gaming, and not prosumer usage. And these companies pay thousands per GPU. Clearly, they're getting solid ROI for their use. But let's talk about mining specifically. For my GTX 1060, I limit power to 80% (96W). Fan speed is at a constant 40% (that's in the same ballpark as your blower-style GPU in desktop usage). Temperature is a constant 75°C. That's gentle. Gaming hurts it more (start/stop on the fan, varying temps, quick rise at the start and fall at the end, varying loads, etc.). And if GPUs did prematurely die from mining? One miner insisted that I'd never see an ROI on my 1060 (which cost me $240) because it would die before I could earn that amount. Yea, GPUs routinely die before hitting their ROI. That's why miners are buying $200 GPUs today for $500, or $400 GPUs today for $900. Because they don't generate enough to cover their MSRP, let alone their current gouged prices. /s Common sense would dictate that miners are profitable, or they wouldn't mine. Therefore, GPUs are not dying prematurely. So, don't fall for this one. And yes, I've seen those photos of the 20-card Sapphire RMA. Mining data centers have THOUSANDS of cards. Just do an image search for a GPU mining farm. This is well within typical acceptable defect rates.
Power costs are too high for mining to be profitable.
Warning! Danger Will Robinson! Math ahead! Where I live, electricity ranges from 9.5 cents per kilowatt hour (kw/hr), to 10.1 cents per kw/hr. Let's round to 10 cents. Power measured at the wall from my surge protector, while mining, shows just under 200W. (That's includes my tower, monitor, speakers, a dedicated NAS, a router, and PSU inefficiency). That also includes mining on both CPU and GPU. At 200W per hour, that's 5 hours to hit 1kw/hr. That's 5kw/hr per 25 hours, so let's call it 5kw/hr per day. That is $0.50 per day total from that outlet (and most of this stuff would be running anyway). That's not even "over my existing costs," that's just out the door. Bottom line is that electricity is cheap in many areas. The USA national average is currently ~12 cents per kw/hr (RIP Hawaii, at 33 cents). For most of the developed world, power costs are not prohibitive. Don't fall for this. If unsure, check your rates on your bill, and ask someone who can do math if you can't.
Casually mining isn't profitable
There's a big difference between "profit" and "getting rich." I have no expectations of the latter happening from what I'm doing. But "profit" is very much real. It's not power costs that derail profitability. It's all of the hidden fees. Many mining programs take a cut of your output. And then a cut to transfer to a wallet. And then there's a fee to transfer to an exchange. Oh, did you want to then convert to cash? We can...for a fee! The trick is in finding outlets that allow you to minimize fees. I give up 2% of my output, transfer to my wallet for free, can transfer to an exchange for free, and don't plan to cash out every time I meet the minimum threshold (higher fees!). I instead plan to cash out at extended set intervals to minimize those fees. NOTE: I am deliberately not listing the provider(s) that I use, because I don't want to be accused of being associated with them and/or driving business to them. I want this post to be about the big picture. But I will answer questions in the comments, provided the moderation staff here has no objections. Bottom line is that with a mid-range GPU like mine, and without the benefit of CPU mining (it's just not worth it without a modern Core i7, or Ryzen 5/7), my GPU alone could make me ~$60-$75/mo in profit at current rates. Think of how many months/years you go between upgrades. Now, do the math. Needless to say, I'm now regretting not going bigger up front :)
It's too complicated for a casual miner, so don't bother
The old "go big or go home" saying, and it sort of piggy backs off the last one. And there is some truth in this. If you're going to be a big-time miner, you need mining programs (often dedicated to each algorithm and/or currency), multiple wallets, access to multiple exchanges, etc. It's daunting. But for the casual, you don't need that. There are multiple providers who offer you a one-stop-shop. I have one login right now. That login gives me my mining software, which switches between multiple algorithms/coins, gives me a wallet, and lets me transfer to an outside wallet/exchange. My second login will be the exchange (something that lets me convert my currency to local cash) when my balance justifies it. Given the recent Robin Hood announcement, I'm biding my time to see what happens. This space is getting competitive (lower fees). Bottom line, it's easier now than it ever was before. As I told someone else, "Once I finally started, I wanted to kick my own ass for waiting so long."
New GPUs are expensive, but if you just wait, there will be a buttload of cheap, used GPUs for you!
Miners learned from the last crash. There were two types of miners in that crash: those who sold their GPUs at a loss, and those who kept mining and made out like bandits on the upswing. Turns out, cryptocurrency really does mimic the stock market (for now). We're going to look at Bitcoin (BTC) to explain this. No, miners don't mine BTC. But, BTC is commonly what most coins are exchanged for (it makes up roughly one third of the entire cryptocurrency market). And it's the easiest currency to convert to cash. So, when BTC rises or falls in price, the rest of the market goes with it. That includes all of the coins that GPU miners are actually mining. In January 2017, when the current mining push started, BTC was worth roughly $900 per coin. It's now worth roughly (as of this post) $12,000 per coin, down from a December high of over $20,000 per coin. So yea, the market "crashed." It's also more than 12x the value it was a year ago, when miners dove in. You think they're going to bail at 12x the value? Son, I've got news for you. This market needs to truly crash and burn for them to bail (and that's where you come in!). So, there's not going to be a flood of used GPUs from a sudden market crash. Again, they've learned from that mistake. Used GPUs will enter the market when they are no longer profitable for mining, and not before. Dedicated miners have lots of room for expansion. When Volta comes out, they're not selling their Pascal GPUs. They're building new Volta mining rigs alongside the Pascal ones, making money off each of them. Conclusion/TLDR:
Mining is subject to diminishing returns. It gets harder over time on the same hardware.
PC gamers joining the market en masse could trigger an apocalypse in terms of difficulty
Due to this, it benefits pro miners to spread misinformation to discourage gamers from entering the mining game
Casually mining on your existing system is safe, easy, could help you pay for your next upgrade(s), and could also hurt the mining market in general (better availability/pricing on GPUs)
No, there's no flood of used Pascal/Polaris/Vega GPUs around the corner, as those are HIGHLY profitable even in a depressed market
Second Conclusion - Why do I (jaykresge) personally care? Simply put, I'm disgusted by this. I was excited about flipping a few friends from consoles to PC gaming. I'm now seeing a reverse trend. One friend is gaming on an RX 560 waiting for prices to hit sanity. He's running out of patience. Others have bailed. I view our dormant GPUs as the best weapon against cryptocurrency mining. Destroy it from the inside. It's win-win for most of us. Either we earn enough for more upgrades, or we depress pricing. Something's got to give. In other words, y'all f*ckers better start mining, because I want Volta to be reasonably priced when it launches so I can get an EVGA x80 Hybrid to go with a G-Sync monitor. And if this doesn't happen, I'm going to be cranky! Seriously though, thanks for reading. Bear with me as I go over this a few more times for typing/grammar. And I look forward to your comments.
List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem. My gaming PC hasn't been working properly for like a year or more. A year or 2 ago I changed all my pc parts for new ones, so all the stuff in my computer is not more than 2 years old. Whenever I am playing a game or running benchmarks my monitor will go to a no input screen after a few minutes of running. I first thought it might be a GPU problem, so i RMA'd it. I have had about 5 different 1080Ti's that were all back from RMA. I have already brought my PC to a repair shop here, they also didnt know where the problem would be. They have checked all the parts, but they couldn't check the MB and CPU. So I send my MB to the place where i bought it from, they tested the MB for 4 hours in different benchmarks and nothing was wrong. I tried installing the gpu into my dad's pc, it still crashed, but after like half a day. I swapped the cpu for a Ryzen 3 1200, but still no luck. I've tried almost anything but nothing seems to work. Reinstalling and factory resetting also doesn't seem to fix the issue. When i unplug the pc and remover the psu cables from the GPU and plug Them back in a fee seconds later, my pc will take longer to crash. I should add that the PSU is from an old bitcoin miner, i don't know if that has any negative effect on the system. I hope this is enough info for you guys to help me out with, if any more info is needed just say so , thanks in advance
Tips for Building a 6K editing PC w/ more than 1 GPU (Resolve)
Hi buildapc I'm new to building a PC and lucked out on getting 3 x 1080 ti's for free from my brothers old bitcoin mining rig. I shoot and edit my own videos, Ursa Mini 4.6K, 4.6K Lossless files (moving to RED Dragon 6K files in the new year with the RED Komodo 6k). I would like to edit with as little proxy-ing as possible, I know its totally unnecessary to have it playback at full res but my current computer cant even handle 720p proxies... I currently edit on a 2013 Macbook Pro, mid-range. Timeline 1080p 24fps, Delivery 1080p (vimeo) Ideally I will be taking 4.6k lossless files, as well as 6k 6:1 compressed files and editing in 4K 24fps proxy for 4K delivery. My buddy told me I will be fine with just one 1080 ti, but I already have 3 so I figure I might as well put them to use. I'm wondering if I can put all 3 of them into this sub $1500 rig. The PC I am about to build will go like this: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor MB: Asus ROG STRIX X470-F Gaming ATX AM4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD Storage: Western Digital 1 TB HDD GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card **GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB SC2 Video Card** **(NON-SLI)** CASE: Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case PSU: **EVGA BQ 850 W 80+ Bronze semi-modular ATX** **(Need a 1000 W 80+ Gold if i have more than 2 GPU's)** Most of the information I have found about 2 GPU's is SLI, but I have also read that DaVinci works better with 2 separate dedicated GPU's. Does anyone have any advice on whether or not 2-way SLI is better? Can I do 3-way Crossfire with this build? Can I have 3 GPU's non-SLI? Can I dedicate just 1 GPU for debayering in the background? Can I dedicate 1 GPU for rendering only? Thanks in advance!
I've done something with a partner of mine (we had to to save $). We have 2 PSU's powering a computer with 2 (soon 4) GPUs. The PSUs are thermaltake and coolermaster both new and having brozne rating. Bitcoin-Qt ist ein Open-Source-Projekt und derzeit einer der sichersten Vertreter unter den Mining-Clients. Hier müssen Sie sich nicht um eventuelle Angriffe auf Ihr virtuelles Geld sorgen. Ebenfalls Open-Source und vertrauenswürdig ist Electrum.Das Tool punktet mit einer 2-Faktor-Authentifizierung, dem Support von Add-ons und der Möglichkeit, Ihre Keys jederzeit in andere Bitcoin-Clients ... Another recommendation is to use your PSU with 230V input whenever possible. Besides 1-2%-higher efficiency, this also reduces the amperage passing through the AC power cord by half. As a result ... You can modify your chassis or purchase one of the Chassis mentioned bellow. 1x Male end (Motherboard side): 24pin 2x Female ends (PSUs side): 24pin This is safe as the motherboard gets power from one PSU only. The second PSU provide power to other components. Both PSU start when the On / Off button of your PC is pressed. Package: 1* Power CablePack of 2. Great for intense Gaming & BitCoin Mining HVVH 20+4 Pin Silent Noise Reduction Miner/PC GPU ATX 1600W Power Supply 87 Plus Gold Designed for US Voltage 110V 1600w Mining ETH PSU Max Support 8 Graphics with 1.5m US Plug Adapter Cable. 4.3 out of 5 stars 17. $189.99 Only 7 left in stock - order soon. Kingwin Bitcoin Miner Rig Case W/ 6, or 8 GPU Mining Stackable Frame - Expert Crypto Mining Rack W/Placement for Motherboard for Mining ...
The Origin Big O 2019. A combo of PS4, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch and RTX Titan Gaming PC in one box. Origin PC - https://www.originpc.com/big-o/ LG UltraGear... Modifying an HP HSTNS-PL11 Server PSU for Bitcoin Mining (incl. auto-start and voltage adjust) - Duration: 17 ... Have Multiple PSU's in One PC - Duration: 2:57. Slot1Gamer 53,760 views. 2:57 ... Building a 12V power supply to charge LiPo batteries, from and old PC power supply. * * * * * DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY: Faulty Dave specifically DISCLAIMS LIA... abrir la descripcion puede instalar 2 fuentes de poder en tu pc -----... What it really takes to mine a Bitcoin in 10 Minutes. Firstly I'll show you a special free method to mine Bitcoin and send funds directly to your wallet in 1...